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A counterfeit model is simply a repainted one. Not all repainted models are or can be regarded as counterfeits. They only become so if they are presented as originals. The most common ones are the rare Bburagos, however, other brands such as Polistils, Solidos and even Ertls!! can be found. Rare models which are repainted are usually done so in order to present them as "mint" quality and obtain a higher market price, or repainted into a more valuable sought after out of series color that is no longer available. A good way to avoid getting such a model is to:
 
  1.  Buy from reliable sources. Many hobby shops are specialized in the selling and buying of old and rare out of series replicas. Swap-meets are usually risky places unless one is confident of the honesty of the seller.
 
  2.  Check the edition or series color. One can usually see the models in the makers original catalogue (if available). This can give a better general impression of the color.
 
  3.  Check the paintwork on the model. With the exception of makers such as Kyosho, Anson and a few others, many die-cast makers usually paint their models on automated bands with their panels and doors shut. This often leaves unpainted areas around the door sills and other openings. These unpainted areas are very obvious, specially on old Bburago and Polistil models. Check to see if those areas exist.
 
Bburago (Trunk opening) Polistil (Door sill)
BBURAGO Rolls Royce Camargue POLISTIL Alfa Romeo 1750

 
  4.  Buy with the original box. Always try to obtain the original pakage when you buy an old or rare model (or any model for that matter). The different pakage versions can normaly identify what series or period the model was made in. See that the item and pakage match with the period of production. Some old model boxes even have the model's picture printed on them. Buying with the box also raises the models value, a boxed model can have a value of up to 25% higher than an unboxed one.


How are used models' conditions classified?


MB (Mint and Boxed)
Model in absolutely top condition, in original pakage. (Practically New).
These are usually sold at their 100% price, often set by collectors and the known market value of that particular model.

M (Mint)
Model in perfect condition but not necessarily boxed. 60-80% value.

NM (Near Mint)
Model with minor traces of age or usage. 50-60% value.

VSC (Very slightly Chipped)
Model with minor defects in paint and or parts. About 50% value.

SC (Slightly Chipped)
Model with clearly visible defects in paint and or parts, but still in good overall condition and all parts present. 30-50% value.

C (Chipped)
Model with major defects in the paint and or parts, but with its major parts still present. these are sold at 20-30% value.

AT (Almost Trash)
Model with major defects in the paint and one or more major parts missing, such as doors, wheels etc. 0-20% value.

All of the above can gain as much as 25% value if boxed It is also important to note that these values are not in any way a given rule. It all depends on ofcourse how much a collector really wants a model and is willing to pay for it and how much the other is willing to accept before parting with it. This also applies to RP models (repainted models).


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