From kevinz@pine Fri Nov 10 16:32:23 1995 Newsgroups: alt.models,rec.photo.technique.people Path: news.ifm.liu.se!news.lejonet.se!newsfeed.tip.net!peroni.ita.tip.net!newsvol.vol.it!news.sprintlink.net!news.uoregon.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!soap.news.pipex.net!pipex!dish.news.pipex.net!pipex!bt!btnet!newsfeed.internetmci.com!chi-news.cic.net!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!stortek!pine!kevinz From: kevinz@pine (Kevin Zwack x32632) Subject: Modeling Profession FAQ V1.2 (65K) Message-ID: Followup-To: poster Summary: Questions and Answers About the Modeling Profession for Models and Photographers Keywords: FAQ,Modeling,Photography Sender: news@stortek.com Reply-To: Kevin Zwack Organization: none X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 05:01:43 GMT Expires: Fri, 10 Nov 1995 07:00:00 GMT Lines: 1578 Xref: news.ifm.liu.se alt.models:5148 rec.photo.technique.people:159 Archive-name: Modeling-Profession/FAQ Posting-frequency: Monthly Version: $Revision: 1.2 $ Last-modified: $Date: 1995/11/08 00:23:17 $ The Modeling Profession FAQ Kevin Zwack Productions Boulder, CO kevinz@redwood.stortek.com $Id: models.faq,v 1.2 1995/11/08 00:23:17 kevinz Exp kevinz $ ------------------------------ Subject: 1.0 Table of Contents * Administrative Issues * 1.0 Contents * 1.1 Copyright Notice * 1.2 Disclaimers * 1.3 Submitting Updates * 1.4 Introduction * 1.5 Charter [TBD] * General Information for Models and Photographers * 2.0 Type's of Modeling and Work * 2.1 Model's Portfolios * 2.2 Comp/Index/Sed/Zed Cards | * 2.3 Release Forms * 2.4 Copyrights & Negatives * 2.5 Modeling Books & Videos * 2.6 Makeup Books & Videos * 2.7 Useful WWW Sites * 2.8 Travel Tips * 2.9 International Travel * 2.10 Modeling on Television * Model's Questions * 3.0 How Does One Become a Model? * 3.1 How Do I Find an Agency? * 3.2 How Do I Find a Photographer * 3.3 Go-Sees/Interviews/Casting Calls * 3.4 Appointment Book? * 3.5 Resume'? * 3.6 Tear Sheets? * 3.7 Vouchers? * 3.8 How to Prepare for a Photo Session? * 3.9 What to Bring to a Photo Session? * 3.10 Do I need to Know How to Pose? * 3.11 Makeup? * 3.12 What do People Look for in a Model? * 3.13 Professionalism * 3.14 Taxes * 2.15 Should You Become a Model? * Photographer's Questions * 4.0 How to Get Started * 4.1 Equipment * 4.2 Finding Models * 4.3 Makeup? * 5.0 Acknowledgments | = Contains new or updated material. ------------------------------ Subject: 1.1 Copyright This document is copyright (C) 1995, 1996 by Kevin Zwack Productions. All rights reserved. Permission is granted for personnel non-commercial use and distribution within the internet community provided this document is kept in its entirety and not modified in any way. No part of this document may be copied or quoted within another document or publication, either electronic or otherwise, except under the United States Fair Use regulations. This document may not be included in commercial collections or compilations without the express written consent of the editor. ------------------------------ Subject: 1.2 Disclaimers This FAQ is provided as is without any express or implied warranties. While every effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information contained herein, the editor and contributors assume no responsibility for errors, or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein. The contents of this FAQ reflect the personal opinions of the editor and contributors, and not necessarily those of their employers and/or internet access providers. The editor assumes no responsibility for inaccurate or libelous statements from contributors. The editor assumes that all submitted material conforms to international copyright laws and accepts no liability for submissions in violation thereof. The contents and format of this document is subject to change without notice. The modeling industry is one in which are there are few rules and for all rules there are exceptions. Therefore, the material in this FAQ is a mixture of facts, experiences, and opinions. You should not depend solely on this information without taking into consideration your own situation and common sense. The fashion and modeling industries are volatile in the sense they change with every season, much like the weather. The practices and needs of the industry also vary with different markets (e.g., cities, products). A reputable agency can provide current information for a given market. AGFA [tbd] Foamcore is a registered trademark of Monsanto, Inc. Kodak is a trademark used under license from the Eastman Kodak Company. Penthouse is a trademark of Penthouse International, Ltd. Photoflex is a registered trademark of Photoflex, Inc. Playboy is a registered trademark of Playboy Enterprises. ------------------------------ Subject: 1.3 Submitting Updates This FAQ is provided as a service to the models and photographers who read the alt.models or other relevant newsgroups. As such, contributions, updates, and corrections are welcomed. All comments and submissions become the property of the editor. Please submit material and comments regarding this FAQ to the editor, kevinz@redwood.stortek.com. Please include "Modeling FAQ" in the subject of your message. Be sure to include your real name. The editor reserves the right to: * reject submissions which are not germane, constructive, or accurate. * "word-smith" submissions for correct spelling, grammar, length, etc. * acknowledge submitters of contributions unless they explicitly request otherwise. ------------------------------ Subject: 1.3 Introduction Welcome to alt.models and the Modeling Profession FAQ. This FAQ is designed to help photographers and especially models get started in the modeling industry by answering their frequently asked questions. If you have a question that is not answered here, please let me know so I can add it. Also, post your question to the alt.models newsgroup. I'm sure you will get a variety of answers and advice. If after reading this (and hopefully some of the material listed herein) you think the modeling industry is right for you, then by all means pursue it to the best of your abilities. Good luck and have fun! ------------------------------ Subject: 1.4 Charter [Do we need a charter? I am reluctant to create one unless it's something people want. [KZ] ------------------------------ Subject: 2.0 Types of Modeling When we think of modeling, images of Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer, or perhaps Fabio come to mind. However, these celebrities only represent a small segment of the modeling industry. Some types of modeling include: * High Fashion -- This is the type of modeling most often associated with supermodels. High fashion models must generally be tall and slender. Specific height and weight requirements vary with each market, and of course there are always exceptions. * Catalogs -- Catalogs, brochures, annual reports, and the like are a good source of steady income for models. While such models are generally not famous, they often make substantial incomes. * Specialty -- Specialty modeling essentially involves photographing body parts, such as feet, hands, eyes, lips, etc. This is mostly done for product photography such as shoes, jewelry, and cosmetics. * Nude -- Nude modeling can be loosely divided into several categories: 1) Nude fashion modeling, where the model is nude, yet sometimes "nothing" is showing in the photos. 2) Artistic/figure modeling, for the purpose of creating art, often shot in b/w, although this is not a requirement. 3) Glamour such as might be seen in Playboy or Penthouse. 4) Sexually explicit photos, usually for men's magazines. Nude modeling can be a pleasant and fun experience, but be extra careful when choosing a photographer. Be sure to ask for references from previous models. Modeling Work ------------- In addition to the various types of modeling, models are often asked to perform several different kinds of work. Some examples include: * Runway/catwalk -- Modeling clothes at fashion shows. Such shows not only take place in Paris, Milan, and New York, but also at local shopping malls and stores. * Print Work -- Simply posing in front of the camera for still photographs. Print work is usually split into two categories: commercial and editorial. Commercial work is shooting advertisements, and this form pays the most. Editorial work involves photos for articles and magazines, and even magazine covers. While editorial pays less than commercial, it offers great exposure and often leads to other work. * Mannequin Modeling -- Usually work in department stores where you pose perfectly still for long periods in window displays. * Promotions -- Models are often hired to appear at various functions such as car shows, conventions, etc., sometimes to pass out literature or to just stand around and look beautiful. * Film/Video -- Models are sometimes asked to work in film and video, such a TV commercials and so on. While this can involve some acting ability, many models have obtained this type of work because they move well or have a good speaking voice. ------------------------------ Subject: 2.1 Model's Portfolios A model's portfolio or "book" is an essential tool for getting work in the modeling profession. An agency will usually provide a modeling portfolio book to new models with the agency's name or logo on the cover. Of course it is up to the model to get the blank pages filled in. (See Q3.2, Finding a Photographer). At a minimum, your portfolio must have a head-shot, and a 3/4 or full length shot. * The head shot must be clear (no diffusion) and little but natural looking makeup. * Your full-length shot must reveal your figure somewhat, so a clingy dress, swimsuit, or leotard should be worn. Baggy clothes will quickly tip off viewers that you have something to hide. The rest of your portfolio should consist of tear sheets (see Q3.6) or photos that show how diverse looking you can be, i.e., photos which demonstrate different looks, moods, and so on. Portfolios may contain a mixture of b/w or color photographs, with a total of 10-20 being typical. All your photos should have pizzazz, or be memorable in some way. They should represent your best work and be flattering to your looks. In particular, choose poses which make you look tall and/or slender, rather than photos which make you look heavier. Do _not_ put nude photos in your portfolio unless you are strictly a nude model. Nude photos are not used in fashion portfolios except in certain markets, and then only "fashion nudes" as described in section 2.0 are used. If you are interviewing (Q3.3) for a "nude" job, bring your nude photos, if any, in a separate envelope apart from your portfolio. Be aware that nude photos are taboo in many countries and that bringing nude photos into such countries could result in your being arrested. Photos are usually printed on 8x10 or A4 size F-finish (glossy) paper, with or without borders. I often provide 8x12 photos which create the illusion of a taller more slender image. Photos larger than this will not fit most books and would be a waste of money. Models sometimes include a contact sheet or two which shows a diverse range of poses from a single photo session. Experienced agencies and photographers often keep a lupe handy just for viewing contact sheets. However, it would be a good idea to have one with you. (See section 3.9 for information on lupes.) You can and should build your portfolio up by testing with different photographers, as different photographers can help you achieve different looks and posing techniques. I feel photographers have a professional and ethical obligation to explain this to potential models. You should avoid any photographers who insist on shooting your entire portfolio themselves. Granted, after explaining this to people, I have had clients who say "well our daughter Suzy wants to be a model now; we don't have time for all the testing business; just shoot the whole thing; we don't care how much it costs..." Be sure to keep your portfolio current. If you obtain tear sheets >from a job, be sure to put them in your book. If your looks change with time or you change your hair style or whatever, get new photographs to add to your book. ------------------------------ Subject: 2.2 Comp/Index/Sed/Zed Cards Composite cards go by many different names. They are to models what business cards are for the rest of us, but in some ways even more important. A comp card contains photos of a model, either color or b/w, along with the model's name, height, weight, measurements, and his/her agency's name and phone number. Other information might include clothing sizes, social security number, or special talents. For b/w comp cards, it's a good idea to list your hair and eye color (and even your skin color if you are very tan). Note that comp cards used in the acting/entertainment profession are considerably different than modeling comp cards. Be sure you are getting the right style. An agency can usually arrange to have a model's comp cards printed, but in most cases models are expected to pay the agency or printer for their own comp cards. The setup costs for comp cards is fairly high such that comp cards are only cost effective for quantities of 200 or more. At the other extreme, do not buy too many comp cards; your looks will likely change in two years or less, at which time you will need to get new comp cards. Your agency can probably recommend a good starting quantity for their market. If you are not with an agency, your photographer can probably recommend a good printer to make your cards. Avoid large fancy comp cards that fold; most people punch holes in them and bind them, so folded cards are seldom seen on the inside. Stick with standard sizes and styles; it's your your looks, and thus the pictures that make the difference. Once you get your comp cards, make them available to clients and photographers that you meet at interviews and so on. Keep some handy in the back of your portfolio. Your comp cards are your easiest way to market yourself and you want people to remember what you look like so they will consider using you for all future jobs. They key to getting modeling work is getting clients to think of you when they need a model. ------------------------------ Subject: 2.3 Release Forms In order to prevent lawsuits, release forms are not only common place but required for many types of photo sessions. They are required in the United States in order to use photographs for commercial purposes. Essentially a release form gives a photographer or his clients the copyrights and right to use and sell your photos. As a model you should understand that release forms are a routine requirement for most photography sessions. For most types of modeling, you should not have any cause for concern about signing a release, but always read anything carefully before you sign it. If you have a problem with having your photos published, than modeling is probably the wrong profession to be in. Signing a release form for nude photography or other pictures that you might be uncomfortable with deserves special consideration. By signing a release form, you are giving permission for the pictures to be published at any time, forever. Consider whether you want nude pictures of yourself published years from now. A reputable photographer will take the time to discuss and answer any questions you might have about release forms. Photographers: You should always obtain a signed release form from models for any photos you plan to publish or exhibit. While laws vary >from state to state, publishing a photo without written consent opens the door to lawsuits based on various right of privacy issues. Many if not most magazines and stock agencies will not accept photos which do not have accompanying release forms. Better to be safe than sorry. There is also the ethical issue of publishing a photo with consent. Think twice before publishing an image without written consent, if only to protect yourself, your reputation, and the profession. Release forms are also required for certain property, objects, pets, etc. For example: the designs on balloons are often copyrighted or trademarks; I've heard of a photographer who lost a lawsuit for selling a photo of a mountain-scape in which a balloon was present. You may wish to consult the following materials or an attorney if you have questions. * Duboff, Leonard, "The Photographer's Business and Legal Handbook", Images Press, 1989. * Several publications are available from ASMP (American Society of Magazine Photographers) which contain pertinent information, as well as sample release forms. Please contact ASMP for current information. Remember to be aware of any laws in your state or country. ------------------------------ Subject: 2.4 Negatives and Copyrights Models need to understand that in almost all situations, the photographer or his client owns the copyrights and negatives of a photo session. Do not expect to be given any negatives, nor should you have copies made of any photos you receive, except as noted below. Note to photographers: In my opinion and probably that of most professionals, do _not_ give away or sell your negatives! Exposing the film is only half the process; you should be equally concerned for the quality of the resulting prints. The quality of the prints, pictures which _you_ worked hard to shoot, will impact _your_ reputation. If a model or someone takes your negatives to a poor quality lab and the prints turn out badly, the model and people who view the prints will just as likely blame you as the lab. Only give perfect finished products to your clients and models. Models are often required to send their portfolios or photos out of town to other agencies and clients. While this can be done, models should instead send copies so they do not lose their portfolios, and so they have their portfolios at all times for local interviews. It has become increasingly expensive for models to buy additional prints. However, technology has provided an answer. It is now common practice for models to send "lasers" (color xerographic copies) of pictures. While this practice hurts photographers to some extent, it has become standard in the industry. To this end, I now provide on request, a letter on my letterhead granting the model rights to have the images copied for self-promotion purposes. This prevents models >from getting a hard time from reproduction centers that enforce copyright laws. (My photos contain a copyright notices on the back, but models have been challenged even on photos without a copyright notice.) Portfolios based on PhotoCD technology and electronic (e.g. WWW) transmission are starting to enter the profession as well. Both of these present their own copyright problems. It is yet to be determined how these will be solved in the long term. ------------------------------ Subject: 2.5 Modeling Books & Videos There are several fine books available on modeling that can benefit both models and photographers. They should be available in bookstores or your local library. In bookstores, modeling books are often located in the fashion/beauty section or the photography section. * Anderson, Marie, "MODEL -- The Complete Guide to Becoming a Professional Model", Doubleday, 1988. ISBN 0-385-26020-2. [A good how-to book on getting into modeling. Covers a broad range of important topics.] * Cheyenne, "Posing Techniques for Photographers and Models", AMPHOTO, 1983. ISBN 0-8174-5544-2. [Focusing on print modeling, this book is written for both models and photographers. Not a great book but might be useful for beginners.] * Elgort, Author, "Author Elgort's Models Manual", Distributed Arts Publishers, 1993. ISBN 0-9639236-0-9. [Essentially lots of wonderful pictures with a few quotes and such from models thrown in. No really useful information for someone wanting to get into the business.] * Goldman, Larry, "Becoming a Professional Model", Beech Tree Books, 1986. ISBN 0-688-04765-3. [A good general how-to book on getting into modeling.] * Gross, Michael, "MODEL -- The ugly business of beautiful women", William Morrow and Company, 1995. ISBN 0-688-12659-6. [A history of the modeling business, war stories, and seedy tales. Makes for interesting reading if you are in the business.] * Maiwald, Sue, "Exposed! How to Become a Model Without Getting Scammed", Maiwald Productions, 1994. [Written by a formal model, this booklet offers useful advice for getting into the modeling profession. Copies may be ordered by sending a check or money order for US $4.95 per copy plus US $1.50 shipping and handling to EXPOSED!, POB 370853, Denver, CO 80237. Colorado residents must add applicable sales tax.] * Matheson, Eve, "The Modeling Handbook, Third Edition", Henry Holt and Company, 1995. ISBN 0-8050-3830-2. [This is one book I whole-heartily recommend to all models. What is most useful is that this book contains a (current) list of most of the major agencies in major markets throughout the world.] Videos: ------- * Glamour Video Associates, "Glamour Photography of Models and Photographers", 1987. [An excellent video features all aspects of glamour photography including makeup, lighting, posing, etc. The video contains a good blend of information aimed at both models and photographers.] * Forte Entertainment, "The Practical Guide to Modeling", 1987. Volume I: How to Become a Model Volume II: On The Set: Preparing for Pictures Volume III: Designing Your Portfolio [This is a excellent series for getting models started. The production quality is excellent, the information useful and well presented. Highly recommended.] * Kodak Advanced Photography Series, "Glamour Photography", 1985. [Intended for photographers, this video may also be useful for models interested in glamour photography, posing, etc.] Check for these videos at local video store. If they are not in stock, ask if they can be ordered for you. Also look for mail-order ads in photography magazines. ------------------------------ Subject: 2.6 Makeup Books & Videos * Aucoin, Kevin, "The Art of Makeup", HarperCollins, 1994. ISBN 0-06-017186-3. [A beautiful book with wonderful pictures and good makeup tips. The how-to information is not thorough enough to really learn all one should about makeup.] * Jackson, Carole, "Color Me Beautiful MakeUp Book", Ballantine Books, 1988. ISBN 0-345-34842-7. [A pretty good how-to book. Covers every day makeup, but also useful for makeup artists and models.] * Jewell, Diana Lewis, "Making Up by Rex", Clarkson Potter, 1986. ISBN 0-517-56954-1 or paperback 0-517-56955-8. [Contains lots of good how-to information. Useful for every day makeup as well as photography makeup.] * Payton, William, "Creating Beautiful Faces -- The Art of Corrective Makeup", Unpublished, 1993. [As a photographer and makeup artist, Bill is one of the best in the business. He taught me makeup and I shall be eternally greatful for his classes. Look for his workshops under the under his trade name "Destin Beach Photographic Workshops".] Videos: ------- * Perrin, John & Trish, "On Broadway -- Make it Hot" Series, Photo Concepts International, 1988. Volume I: Fashion/Art -- The Magic of Blank & White Volume II: Makeup Magic [Part of a seven volume series, the first volume covers makeup for B/W photography. The second volume covers color makeup. These two volumes are the best videos I've seen for photographic makeup. Anyone serious about makeup should check these out.] * Smith, Shannon, "Photographic Makeup Techniques", Art Ketchum Studios. [This is the second volume in a series produced by Art Ketchum. The production quality is not up to par, but Shannon presents many useful makeup tips.] Check for these videos at local video store. If they are not in stock, ask if they can be ordered for you. Also look for mail-order ads in photography magazines. ------------------------------ Subject: 2.7 Useful WWW Sites What following is a listing of _useful_ WWW sites which might be of interest to models and photographers. * One of the single best places for information on the web is Fashion Net, located at: * Looking for a photographer in your area? Try looking here: * Here's a handy list of fashion magazines and their mail addresses: * The Fashion page, contents the latest fashion news, plus a listing of modeling agencies. If you want your WWW listed here, please send an e-mail to the editor convincing him that your site is useful and flourishing. ------------------------------ Subject: 2.8 Travel Tips In the fashion industry, successful models and photographers are frequently required to travel. The rec.travel.* newsgroups are an excellent source of travel information. Especially useful is their FAQ located at: This FAQ is also available by anonymous FTP from [128.2.206.173] using username "anonymous" and password "name@host" (substitute your e-mail address) or via AFS at as the files airfare1.faq, airfare2.faq, airfare3.faq, and airfare4.faq. ------------------------------ Subject: 2.9 International Travel International travel poses special problems for models and photographers. If you do not already have a passport, be sure to get one well in advance before traveling abroad. Call the appropriate officials in your country for passport and other travel information. Some destinations also require visas, which can be involve a lengthly process. As a photographer, you may require a special commercial or business visa. It is best to arrange for such things well in advance of your trip. A good travel agent who frequently handles international travel can be invaluable. I have found the following items to be essential for models and/or photographers when traveling abroad: * Passport, visa. * Prescription and over the counter medications. They are often difficult to obtain in foreign countries. * Voltage converter kit. Be sure to get one of the more complete kits which includes all the various plugs and receptacles that you might encounter. * A language conversion dictionary, e.g., English/French. * Those little computerized language translators are also handy to keep in your pocket, purse, or camera bag. I find that small paperback dictionaries are more complete, and much cheaper. [Stavros Macrakis ] * A little computerized currency converter and pocket calculator is also useful. * A small travel iron. * A small travel steamer. * An extension cord (more important than you can possibly imagine.) Take time to learn the mass-transit systems in the cities you visit. The cities with large fashion markets often have excellent subway (underground) systems which are fast and inexpensive. Photographers also have the problem of their photography equipment. I find that for lighting and grip equipment, it is easier to rent/hire the necessary equipment at my destination, if possible. As for your camera equipment, it is essential that you obtain a "Carnet" from your customs office before you leave. A Carnet is a customs document which allows you take your equipment into a country (or when returning to your own country) without having to pay customs duty on all your equipment. You will have to bring all of your equipment to the customs office so the serial numbers and descriptions can be recorded (apparently they don't trust anyone). Keep the Carnet document on your person at all times, as it can provide a useful inventory should your equipment become lost or stolen. The following book is an essential source of useful information for photographers traveling abroad: * Haas, Ken, "The Location Photographer's Handbook", Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1990. ISBN 0-442-31948-7. ------------------------------ Subject: Q2.10 The Modeling Industry on Television The following television programs provide information on the modeling industry: * "House of Style", hosted by Cindy Crawford. Airs on MTV. New episodes monthly (but seems erratic). * "FT - Fashion Television". Airs on VH1. New episodes weekly. * "Fashion File". Airs on E!. [I have seen other fashion shows on E!, but I don't know if these were specials or a series. Anyone?] ------------------------------ Subject: Q3.0: How Does One Become a Model? There are many answers to this question. Some models are "discovered" and become an overnight success, as was the case with Claudia Schiffer. These are often the stories you hear about because the press likes to print these. Most often however, models become successful only through hard work and many tedious interviews. Options available (in order of preference) are: 1. Find a _reputable_ agency to represent you. 2. Find a _reputable_ photographer in the fashion industry to help get you started. 3. Enter a _reputable_ contest or model search. While some of these often produce working models, others are scams that often charge exorbitant entry fees while giving little in return. 4. Find a client to hire you. If your uncle Ed sells used cars, tell him that you want to be in his ads. You can always promote and market yourself, I have met some models who are very successful at this. This requires some special skills that most models do not possess. For example, you must successfully "network" with as many people involved as possible, but this can be difficult to initiate. There are some national modeling books/listings in which a model can pay to have pictures and/or a comp card published. How effective this approach is probably varies greatly from model to model, but I suspect this is less likely to be successful as other methods. The World Wide Web (WWW) offers a new means to promote models electronically. How effective this becomes still remains to be seen. You can always try putting an ad in alt.models, after all it's free. Be sure to list your location and other pertinent information. In any case, you should also look for a photographer (see Q3.2 below). No matter which route you take, you will need some professional quality photos early on. If you get photos first, you can bring them to perspective agencies. If you get an agency first, they can help you locate a suitable photographer. Either way works. ------------------------------ Subject: Q3.1: How Do I Find an Agency? Finding a _reputable_ agency is probably the best means for a perspective model to break into the business. There are several approaches to finding an agency: 1) Ask someone you know who is a model. 2) Ask a commercial photographer which agencies he works with. 3) Sometimes local newspapers will promote local models in their fashion editorials. See if the model and/or agency is credited in the article or photos. Such agencies are probably getting other work for their models too. 4) Check your yellow pages or phone book. 5) Check some of the WWW sites listed later in this document. Many contain lists of agencies throughout the world. When choosing an agency, you want to avoid agencies which make their money from selling modeling classes. Also avoid agencies that charge "signing fees" or other nonsense. To start your career, you will likely have to pay for photos and comp cards, but you should not pay any "fees" to an agency. Avoid agencies that insist you use a particular photographer, stay at a certain hotel, etc. Scams like this often involve kick-back arrangements and generally do not provide the best price or service. Agencies in Milan are particularly notorious for these types of scams. Ask a perspective agency what other models they represent, and which ones have received work in the past week or two. Ask for references of other models that you might call. Before signing with an agency, check with the local Better Business Bureau or other appropriate consumer protection agency about the agency's reputation. Do not sign with the first agency that offers you a modeling contract. Interview with several agencies first. Do not sign a modeling contract on the spot. Take it home overnight, and read it over carefully. If you see a clause that you don't like, ask them to take it out. (Note: Some countries or markets do not use formal contracts, which has good and bad points.) Always remember that an agency's job is to get you work. So in a sense, the agency works for you. Never rely solely on an agency to promote you and manage your career. Always promote and market yourself when opportunities arise and be in charge of your own career. Only you know what's best for you. If you have not heard from your agency in recently, it often helps to call them or stop by to gently remind (or prod) them that your are one of their models. This seems to be highly effective in getting more work for models. While you should consider the advice of your agency, all decisions are yours alone to make. In particular, it is highly questionable when an agency recommends cosmetic surgery. Suggesting a new hair style or nail polish is fine, but drastic and permanent alterations to your looks will usually not make or break your modeling career. It is unlikely that you would recoup the expense of cosmetic surgery and the risks to your own health are not worth it for a modeling job. ------------------------------ Subject: Q3.2: How do I Find a Photographer Early on you will need photos to start your portfolio, for your comp card, and sometimes just to see if you are photogenic. If you are with a reputable agency, they should be able to provide a list of competent photographers to choose from. Ask other model's who they used. Otherwise, check your phone book for commercial fashion photographers. You should avoid portrait, wedding, wildlife, etc. photographers as they do not understand the needs of the modeling business when it comes to pictures. Of course you can always post an ad in alt.models or rec.photo.technique.people (be sure to ask for an experienced fashion photographer in the later newsgroup). Always list your location, as these are read the world over. Ask your agency how they want your pictures done. Many have very specific requirements such as studio/outdoor, background color, size, film, etc., even lighting. Discuss with the photographer the option of testing, or trading some modeling time for the photos. The days of free testing are generally long gone, but most photographers will do the pictures at cost or some low rate. You should not have to pay and arm and a leg for photos. Regrettably I must offer one last caution. While not common, there are some unethical individuals who claim to be professional photographers to photograph woman for the wrong reasons. If during a photo session you receive improper suggestive remarks or sexual advances, LEAVE IMMEDIATELY! Be sure to warn your agency about the person(s) involved. If the circumstances warrant it, do not be embarrassed to notify the police as well. ------------------------------ Subject: Q3.3: Go-Sees/Interviews/Casting Calls Your agency will try to get you modeling jobs by sending you on "go-sees" to as many perspective clients and photographers as possible. The frequency of your go-sees varies drastically with the market, sometimes producing only one a week or month. Good models may sometimes be run ragged from having as many as ten such appointments a day in a great market. The purpose of a go-see is to allow the perspective client to view your portfolio and to see what you look like in person. _Always_ bring your portfolio and comp cards with you! Unless requested otherwise, you should wear business attire which flatters your looks. Sometimes however, a client who sells blue-jeans, for example, might ask you to wear blue-jeans to the interview. Check with your agency (or the client if you have agency) what to bring or wear. Ask your agency for a "bring list". (This applies to modeling jobs as well.) _Always_ arrive on time to your interviews. If you do not know where the meeting place is in advance, find out. Never assume you can find an address (especially in a strange city) easily; if you get lost you could be late. Always introduce yourself to people you meet, offer a firm handshake, and make eye contact (except in countries which have different customs.) Hand them your portfolio to review. Be polite and personable, but do not try to create a conversion unless the client initiates this. Do _not_ explain the photos in your portfolio. Remain quiet except to answer questions from the client. Do try however, to appear enthusiastic, show positive energy, and maintain a presence about you. A go-see can take as little as ten seconds; just enough time to quickly flip through your book. This does not necessarily mean rejection however. Sometimes the client may ask to see you walk, especially if the job will involve ramp work. When the client is finished with you, thank them for their time and see yourself out. Go-sees are one of the most difficult aspects of modeling. It is understandably difficult to meet strangers all day and have them assess your looks. Secondly, modeling is filled with rejection. No matter how many go-sees you do, only a fraction of them will result in jobs. Never the less, a successful model must relentlessly follow the go-see process until he or she becomes successful/famous enough to obtain regular work. ------------------------------ Subject: Q3.4: Appointment Book? A model should always keep an appointment or day calendar with her at all times. You should be meticulous in recording your future appointments, go-sees, hours worked, etc. In addition, keep a phone/address book of all photographers, clients, makeup artists, etc. that you work with. These people are part of your networking process in acquiring more work. ------------------------------ Subject: Q2.5: Resume? As you begin to get work, you should maintain a current resume and keep copies of it in your portfolio. Clients and photographers often prefer to work with an experienced model, since they are likely to be more professional and dependable. Your resume should be brief and simple. Only list the dates and clients you have worked for in the past. Also, include the type of work you did such as a ramp show, swimsuit catalog, or whatever. Resumes kept in chronological or reverse chronological order are most common. ------------------------------ Subject: Q3.6: Tear Sheets? Tear sheets are the Holy Grail for new models. Tear sheets are the finished ads or editorial photos of you from published works. Often times these are literally pages torn out of the magazines, catalogs, or whatever. Be sure to put these in your portfolio to show clients your work experience. ------------------------------ Subject: Q3.7: Vouchers? Depending on how your agency works, they may give you a voucher book to keep. These are forms which your client must sign after each work session indicating how many hours you worked. These are sort of like a time-card in that they determine how much the client is billed and how much you get paid. If you use vouchers, _always_ bring them to every job, no exceptions! Always be sure you spell the client's name correctly on your voucher forms to avoid embarrassment. ------------------------------ Subject: Q3.8: How Should I Prepare for a Photo Session? Like most professions, modeling is one that requires some time and effort on your part outside of working. The following tips will help ensure your success. * Men and woman both should get a professional manicure and maintain their nails in perfect condition. * Eat properly and maintain your weight at desired levels. Many models become depressed when traveling to foreign countries and put on excessive weight as a result. Be sure to avoid foods which degrade your skin complexion. * Use appropriate products to treat dry or oily skin conditions. * Avoid getting sun-burned or a tan just prior to a job. Sometimes however, you may be asked to tan before a job. In this case, a tanning booth works best as there is less chance of sunburn, and no tan lines. Modern high-quality (i.e., expensive) self-tanning products from fine department stores work well and photograph well. For best results it should be applied a day in advance. The key is to apply it evenly. You'll have to stand around naked until it dries, however. * Common sense here, but scars, bruises, scratches, and tattoos will work against you in getting work. Be careful. * Maintain a healthy life-style of exercise, sleep, etc. No drugs, minimal alcohol. Models who do the clubs every night quickly find themselves unemployed if not black-listed. * Practice walking, posing, and facial expressions/moods on a regular basis. * Woman should shave (or whatever) to remove unwanted body hair before a job. Do this far enough in advance for any resulting red marks to fade. * If you will be wearing revealing clothing such as swimsuits, lingerie', or posing nude, do not wear any tight clothing or elastic 12-24 hours prior to the job. * Your hair should be freshly shampooed and conditioned before each job. Bring combs, brushes, curling irons, hairspray, etc. that you normally use for touchups to each job. Avoid last minute perms or haircuts just before a job unless told to do so. Longer hair is preferred on female models as this is more versatile, but there are always exceptions. * If you are testing or shooting for your own portfolio, your choice of clothing will impact your photos. You want to choose clothing that flatters your appearance. Avoid loud patterns as these distract the viewer. All black or all white outfits can be used to create low or high-key photos respectively, depending on your own looks. ------------------------------ Subject: Q3.9: What Should I Bring to a Photo Session? Models should have a tote bag of things to bring to their photo sessions. The following are examples of things that might be included. * Hair care: * Brush * Comb * Curlers * Curling Iron * Hair (blow) Dryer * Hair Pins * Hair Spray * Scrungees or hair bands * Styling Gel * Cosmetics: * Blushes * Blush Brush * Concealer * Cosmetic Sponges * Cotton Balls * Cotton Swabs (e.g., Q-tips) * Cover Sticks * Eye Liners * Eye Shadow * Eyebrow Brush * Eyebrow Pencil * Eyelash Curler * Facial Cleanser * Facial Tissues * Facial Toner * False Eye Lashes * Foundation * Lip Balm * Lip Brushes * Lip Gloss * Lip Pencils * Lipsticks * Mascara (water proof) * Mascara Remover * Moisturizing Cream * Nail Clippers * Nail File * Nail Polish * Nail Polish Remover * Pencil Sharpener * Powder Brush * Powder Puffs * Scissors * Skin Conditioner * Sun Screen/Lotion * Towel * Translucent powder * Tweezers * Vitamin E Stick * Wash Cloth * Miscellaneous: * Appointment Book * Band-Aids (round) * Bath Robe -- something warm to put on during nude or swimsuit sessions. * Clothes Pins -- useful to pin back clothes that don't fit properly. * Lupe -- A type of magnifying glass sold at camera stores which a useful for looking at contact sheets. An inexpensive plastic one is fine. AGFA makes a cheap 8x lupe which works well for models. * Mirror -- for hair and makeup touchups. * Mosquitoe/bug Spray -- for location work. * Pantyhose -- woman should always bring several pair of pantyhose, in both nude/tan, black, and perhaps white. Avoid "shiny" looking hose as these do not photograph well. * Safety Pins -- always ask before poking holes in a client's clothing samples. * Shoes -- Models are frequently required to use their own shoes at photo shoots. Woman should keep one or two pairs of of heels or pumps in their tote bag in neutral colors, such as a pair of black, beige, white shoes. Men should have a pair of black dress shoes available, and possibly brown ones. A pair of comfortable sneakers or tennis shoes are often helpful too. * Shoe Polish * Underwear -- woman should bring a set of bra and panties in both black and white, so that a color which does not show through the clothing you will be modeling can be used. * Voucher Book (always bring to every job) Remember, this is a list of suggestions. Nobody can carry all this stuff around all the time. Check with your agency or the client for a "bring list". Items used for modeling should be used _only_ for modeling, especially shoes. You want anything you wear in a photo session to look brand new. Also, items used exclusively for modeling may be tax deductible, check with your accountant. ------------------------------ Subject: Q3.10: Do I Need to Know How to Pose? Yes, but... An experienced photographer can direct a model into poses. However, a professional model should have a repertoire of 36 or more poses. You should be able to move swiftly through a routine of poses. Photographers can shoot a 36 exposure roll with a professional model in about 30 seconds. It is definitely in your best interest to come up with a routine of 36 or more poses. Start by learning 12 at a time. Get ideas from ads in fashion magazines. Study photos of yourself carefully. You can learn which poses work well and which ones do not. Avoid unflattering poses. ------------------------------ Subject: Q3.11: Do I Need to Know About Makeup? Absolutely. When you arrive at a photo session, one three situations will exist: 1. You won't be wearing any makeup. Unlikely, except perhaps for nude figure work or specialty modeling. 2. A makeup artist (or the photographer) will apply your makeup. 3. You will be required to apply your own makeup. This is common, especially for low budget or testing situations. The first thing you must learn is that photography makeup is _not_ the same as our everyday makeup. Both the products and their application can be different from everyday makeup. Most women apply their makeup wrong anyway because they were taught by someone at a cosmetics counter, not a professional makeup artist. You must understand that makeup must be applied according to the nature of the desired picture, the type of film that will be used, and the type of lighting used, etc. Learn as much as you can from professional makeup artists when you are fortunate enough to have one work on you. Consider reading some of the books cited in section 2.6. Always ask the photographer about the type of makeup he wants, and about the type of lighting and film that will be used. Do not use iridescent (glittery) eye-shadows. They do not photograph well. ------------------------------ Subject: Q3.12: What Do Photographers/Clients Look for in a Model? There are two aspects to this question. First, the physical appearance which will get your foot in the door. Desirable physical attributes change with trends in the industry. Obviously tall and slim have been in vogue for some time. Currently large eyes and full sensuous lips are good to have. Few models are perfect, but different physical appearances can help get you work in a particular market. For example, long beautiful hair might get you a shampoo ad. While physical appearances can get you work the first time, your degree of professionalism will get you repeat work with a client or photographer. Conversely, a model who behaves unprofessionally will not be hired again by that client or photographer. See Q3.13 below. ------------------------------ Subject: Q3.13: Modeling Professionalism? There are plenty of attractive men and woman our there who want to be models. What is most important to clients and photographers are models who are professional and dependable. Your looks might get you a job once, but your professionalism will get you repeat work. Some advice: * _Always_ be on time for a job. A photo shoot with assistants, makeup artists, location rentals, equipment rentals, not to mention the clients time can cost tens of thousands of dollars. Wasting people's time costs money. Accidents happen, but if you are going to be late try to call and let people know. * When you arrive you should look and feel your best, ready to work. Not tired from lack of sleep. No hang-overs! * You are being paid to do a job. No whining or complaining, unless of course you feel that your physical well-being is in question. * You _like_ the clients product or clothes, no matter how stupid they look. * Never ever steal anything from a session. If you forget to remove the earrings or whatever, return them immediately or people will assume you stole them deliberately. Models who steal are quickly black-listed and never work again. * Pay attention to what you are doing. Often times you may be asked to repeat the previous pose. If your mind is wandering, the photographer will have to direct you back to that pose again; wasting time. * Be pleasant and cheerful to the people you work with. Modeling is hard work but so is everyone else's job. Nobody wants to be around someone who isn't a team player. * Always remember that the photographer is the one who is ultimately responsible for every photoshoot. Everyone works a little differently and some photographers might want to hear your ideas or suggestions, while others do not. Watch and listen to see how a particular team works before offering advice. In any case, the photographer and client always have the final say. * Treat every session and appointment, even if you are just testing, as though it was the most important session of your life. The people you please or make angry today just might make or break your career months down the road. * _Always_ bring your voucher book to your sessions. Having the client sign you voucher book provides them a last impression of you. Forgetting your voucher book is unprofessional. Be sure to spell the client's name right! * Always pick up after yourself; do not expect others to pick up after you. Even if you are being paid for a job, behave as though you are a guest there. ------------------------------ Subject: Q3.14 Taxes? Depending on the country, there will likely be various tax laws to follow concerning your income as a model. The following general advice is recommended: * An agency can provide helpful information for the country you live in, and/or the country you are working in regarding tax laws. * Without a doubt, the single best piece of advice is to maintain detailed and accurate records and receipts from your profession. This can include mileage to/from appointments, money spent for clothes and accessories used _exclusively_ for modeling, travel tickets and expenditures, etc. * If you are getting work frequently, you will likely have to make periodic (e.g., quarterly) estimated tax payments. * Find a CPA who specializes in taxes for self-employed people to advise you and help plan for tax requirements. * Being self-employed, it probably "looks better" if you have a professional CPA prepare your tax returns, rather than doing them yourself. ------------------------------ Subject: Q3.15 Should You Become a Model? Despite the glamour and hype you have seen about the modeling profession, it's hard work. It's boring. It's tedious. It's filled with rejection, ups and downs. It's a life-style, not an 8-5 job. Not all jobs pay that well. Unless you are seriously committed about modeling, willing to work at it on your own time, live a healthy life-style, etc., you will not succeed as a model. You have to understand that there are _lots_ of other people who want to be models. They are doing everything they can to be successful. Are you willing to put the time and energy into competing with these people, 24-hours a day? Do you have what it takes to be a model? Are you tall and slender and unusually attractive enough that you are as good or better looking than most other models? Be really honest with yourself about this. Ask the opinions of your friends (but not your parents, they're too biased.) Besides looks, do you have the tenacity, patience, aptitude, fortitude, interpersonal skills, communication skills, stamina, etc.? If you think you do, than go for it! Despite its drawbacks, modeling can be fun, exciting, and adventurous. Be sure to maintain realistic expectations however, the odds of becoming a highly successful or famous model are similar to winning a lottery. ------------------------------ Subject: Q4.0: How do I Get Started Photographing Models? Well, before you jump in with both feet, there are certain areas in which you must be knowledgable first. To be successful at model (or fashion) photography, a photographer should understand: * Everything about film and exposure. You should be comfortable working with b/w, color negative, and transparency films. You should be knowledgable with the characteristics of at least two types of films in each of those three categories. * You should have a working relationship with a professional custom lab for your processing and printing needs. Forget about the local supermarket, and forget about mailing your film someplace. If you do your own darkroom work, can you consistently produce perfect results? * You should understand everything about depth of field, shutter speed, etc. as they related to the picture's composition, not just to exposure. * Everything about lighting. Natural light; artificial light; fill-light; synchro-sun; etc. Everything about portrait lighting such as butterfly lighting, Rembrandt lighting, etc. * As much as you can about composition, color, etc. You have a well trained eye and pay attention to minute details. * Posing and directing models. * You are able to consistently produce outstanding pictures with are technically perfect. "Well, how can I learn all that?" you ask. Try the following: * Read books on photography -- there are too many to list here. People have been taking pictures for over 100 years, learn from their experience (and mistakes). * Read magazines on photography. "Peterson's Photographic" always has helpful articles. There also good photo magazines published in the UK like "Practical Photography" and "Photo Answers". News Stands in North America carry these. I have also seen excellent photography magazines in France and Germany. * Try a correspondence course like the one from NYI. * Take formal photography classes. * Take weekend photography workshops. * Consider a school for photographers or a college fine arts degree. (I have heard very mixed opinions on this route, however.) * Offer to assist a professional photographer. * Make sure you have the proper equipment (see Q4.1 below). * Practice, practice, practice. Ask your friends or relatives to "model" for you. Professional ethics dictate that you _know_ this stuff before you start charging people. Modern sophisticated cameras give people a false sense of security that they can take good pictures and thus become a professional photographer. Most people do not realize what need to know to become a professional photographer. I.e., they "don't know what they don't know". All to often you hear of amateurs hanging out their shingle as a professional photographer. They often rationalize their business by arguing that they "don't charge as much as an experienced professional would." I don't buy this argument for one minute. If you buy a new television set, even a cheap one, you still expect it to work don't you? You still expect it to receive all the channels don't you? Taking money from people when you don't know what you're doing is fraud, plain and simple. Sooner than later you will get burned. Another problem is that under pricing your services can screw up the regional market, but that's a topic for another FAQ. :) Finally, jumping into business too soon can damage your reputation and hinder your growth. You don't want a model to tell her agency and all her model friends that you took lousy pictures or "ripped her off". Remember that anyone can learn to operate a camera. It is quality and style that separates professional photographers. Strive to be the best photographer you can be. In some countries, photographers must be licensed. Be sure to check federal, state, and local regulations before you "jump in". Despite what ads or other hype that you might run into, shooting modeling portfolios, comp cards, testing, etc. is not in and of itself a lucrative business. Most people who _want_ to become models are either unemployed, or have terrible minimum wage jobs. That's largely why they want to become models--to make money. The bottom line is that most "wanna be" models have no money and cannot afford a major photo shoot. Ethical photographers will understand this and not try to take advantage of such people. There are plenty of greedy and unethical people in the world, and the modeling industry seems to attract more than it's fair share them. Try to be part of the solution, not part of the problem. Finally, always treat models with respect, the same way you would any important client. Not only do you want the model to tell her friends what great pictures you shoot, but also how professional, courteous, and ethical you are. This alone will grow your business. ------------------------------ Subject: Q4.1: What Equipment is Required? You should have the proper equipment, which is: * A camera with manual exposure capabilities and interchangeable lenses. 35mm equipment is fine to start with. Auto-focus is not necessary. An auto-winder is helpful but not essential. You don't need a fancy camera; spend your extra money to get higher quality lenses. * A "normal" lens, e.g. 50mm, for full-length and 3/4 shots. * A portrait or headshot lens, say in the 80-135mm range. * You can certainly use a zoom lens that covers the required focal lengths. But dollar for dollar, a fixed focal length or "prime" lens will give higher quality results. As tempting as they might be, I have often heard that zoom lenses which operate from wide-angle to telephoto focal lengths is asking too much from one lens. As a result, the quality of such lenses must be sacrificed to keep their costs reasonable. Always buy the best "glass" you can afford. Assuming you use a tripod and know how to use your equipment properly, the quality of your lenses will have the biggest technical impact on your pictures. * A 300mm 2.8 is ideal for outdoor shooting when you want to blow the background out of focus. * A tripod -- I like Bogen's. * Some reflectors and gobos. You can make your own out of cardboard and tin foil, or a sheet or two of Foamcore works well. The Photoflex LiteDiscs are great as a portable solution. * Strobe equipment. One or two flash units which can be operated off-camera are great for outdoor work. In the studio, I like White-Lightning Ultra monolights the best. You will also need stands, umbrellas, soft boxes (I recommend Chimera), a snoot, grid-spots, and barn-doors for your lights. Colored gels are sometimes useful too. * A flashmeter. I recommend the Minolta Flashmeter IV, or the new flashmeter V(?). * Backdrops, but don't get too weird. Ideally all your equipment should be redundant. That is, no single piece of equipment failure should prevent you from completing a job. Learn how to operate your equipment on your own time. Shooting for a paying client is not the time to learn how. What if a model trips over your lightstand and breaks her leg? Do you have liability insurance? ------------------------------ Subject: Q4.2: How Can I Find Models? Most photographers have a difficult time finding models when they are starting out, especially nude models. It helps to practice on your friends and relatives. Often times they can recommend you to their friends. Early on you will need a portfolio of your own to show perspective models the quality of your work. Get practicing and put only the best of the best of your pictures into your portfolio. Be your own worst critic. You should also check in your area for photography workshops that would allow to meet and work with new models. Your local newspaper or publications like "Shutterbug" often have notices of such workshops. In this day and age it is difficult to get strangers, especially woman, that you approach to consider modeling for you. Often times it is helpful if a female friend or relative goes with you and initiates the conversion. You can always place an ad in alt.models, but be sure to include your location and be as specific as possible about what you are looking for. A good place to find nude models is at nearby art schools where nude figure models often work for painters and sculptures. ------------------------------ Subject: Q4.3: Do I need to Know About Makeup? Yes. Proper makeup is essential for model photography; it can make or break a photograph. You should have a professional makeup artist work with you. This is especially true with beginning models, because they have not learned how to apply makeup properly for photography. You could also become a makeup artist yourself. I find there are pros and cons to this. The benefit is that you can apply the makeup exactly the way you want. If you know what you are doing, you should be able to do this as good or better than most makeup artists because as a photographer, you understand light and film, and how they all interact with the makeup. It takes me about an hour to paint a woman's face, and this is time well spent chatting and getting acquainted. It helps to relax models so that they are more quickly at ease once shooting commences. The disadvantages are that it takes me about an hour to paint a woman's face. This is time I could just as well spend arranging the set, adjusting lights, or whatever. Also, having a good makeup artist at your side during shooting provides an extra pair of eyes to notice problems. For example, a makeup artist can help you notice a model's hair out of place or an unwanted wrinkle in her clothing. In any case, you should learn enough about makeup to be able to explain to a model or makeup artist what you want--the look you are going for. It helps to at least learn the names of all that "stuff". ------------------------------ Subject: 5.0 Acknowledgments I would like to thank all the models and photographers who have shared their experiences and war stories with me over the years. Also the following people who specifically contributed to this FAQ in some way: Badgley, Sadie, my best and favorite model. Donna Baldwin Talent, Inc., Denver, CO, (303) 320-0067. Campbell, Judy, a model's "mom" and proof-reader. Macrakis, Stavros, -- Kevin Zwack Productions Boulder, Colorado kevinz@redwood.stortek.com