Minolta FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions), version 1.0 Date: March 20, 1996 Original Maintainer: Eric Loyd, ecldco@rit.edu Current Maintainer: Eric Loyd, eloyd@kodak.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- CONTENTS 0 About this FAQ 0.1 Preface 0.2 Contributions 0.3 Distribution 0.4 Acknowledgements 0.5 History 1 Introduction 1.1 Where can I get this FAQ? 1.1.1 What is the Minolta Mailing List? 1.1.2 What is the Minolta User's Group? 1.2 How can I contact Minolta? 1.3 Other sources of information 2 35mm Camera Bodies 2.1 What's the difference between Maxxum and Dynax cameras? 2.2 What Maxxum cameras are there? 2.3 Can you compare these cameras' features? 2.4 What is autofocus? 2.4.1 What is predictive AF? 2.4.2 What is continuous AF? 2.5 I'm a new/amateur photographer. What camera should I buy? 2.6 I'm a professional photographer. What camera should I buy? 2.7 Do any Maxxum cameras have mirror lock-up? 2.8 Do any Maxxum cameras have depth of field preview? 2.8.1 How can I do DOF preview on a non-DOF preview camera? 2.9 How do I do multiple exposures? 2.9.1 Poor man's multiple exposures 2.9.2 Multiple exposures on a 9000 2.9.3 Multiple exposures on a 9xi 2.9.4 Multiple exposures on a 600si 2.9.5 Multiple exposures on a 700si 2.10 What are program cards? 2.11 What batteries should I use? 2.11.1 My 7000 refuses to work even with new batteries. What gives? 2.11.2 Extended battery pack for 9xi 2.11.3 Extended battery pack / vertical grip for the 700si 2.11.4 What other cameras have the vertical grip? 3 Lenses 3.1 Basic information about Minolta Maxxum lenses 3.1.1 What series Maxxum lenses are there? 3.1.2 What is the classic series? 3.1.3 What is the i series? 3.1.4 What is the xi series? 3.1.5 What is the power zoom lens? 3.1.6 What is the G series? 3.2 Who else makes Maxxum compatible lenses? 3.2.1 Tell me more about Sigma 3.2.2 Tell me more about Tamron 3.2.3 Tell me more about Tokina 3.2.4 What about the others? 3.3 What lenses does Minolta make? 3.4 What are teleconverters (or doublers)? 3.4.1 What about matched teleconverters? 3.5 What does APO mean? 4 Flash Units 4.1 What does a flash _do_? 4.2 What is a guide number (GN)? 4.2.1 How do I determine my personal GN? 4.2.2 How does aperture affect my flash distance? 4.2.3 How does film speed affect my flash distance? 4.2.4 How does shutter speed affect my flash distance? 4.3 What is a hot shoe? 4.4 What is a dedicated flash? 4.4.1 What is a non-dedicated (manual) flash? 4.5 What is TTL flash metering? 4.6 So what flash units are there? 4.6.1 What about the pre-Maxxum flashes? 4.6.2 What about the ISO Maxxum flashes? 4.6.3 What about the iISO Maxxum flashes? 5 Accessories 5.1 Control Grip (CG-1000) 6. Tips and Tricks 6.1 How do I leave the Film Leader Out on my Maxxum/Dynax? 6.1.1 How do I leave the film leader out on my 9000? 6.2 Can I use non AF lenses on my Dynax/Maxxum body. 6.2.1 How to disable the lens mount check? 6.2.2 How do I mount a non AF lens? 6.3 Extension Tubes. 6.4 A Source of Special Adapters. 6.5 Making Your Own Remote Release Cable. 6.6 Minolta Winders What's The Differences?? 6.7 Replacement Manuals. 6.8 Custom Card Functions. 6.9 Portrait Card Settings. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ABOUT THIS FAQ 0.1 Preface This document is a list of frequently asked questions and answers pertaining to Minolta equipment. While the vast majority of these questions and answers pertain to 35mm photographic gear, it is hoped that future growth will include 16mm, medium format, binoculars, range-finders, and so forth. In its original incarnation, most of the information in this document has been taken from the Minolta Mailing List. To subscribe to the mailing list, see section 1.1.1. 0.2 Contributions Contributions to this FAQ are welcome and appreciated. Contributions should be either clarifications or enhancements of existing answers, or they should be new questions with answers provided. New questions without answers make for a poorly written FAQ. All submissions should be sent to the current maintainer of the document, listed at the top. 0.3 Distribution This FAQ may be copied and distributed freely and without charge provided that it is not used for direct commercial advantage. The FAQ must be distributed in its entirety, or specific questions and answers may be quoted in their entirety, provided that credit is given noting that the information came from the Minolta FAQ. The information provided in this document is neither complete or guaranteed. It is hoped that all information is accurate, but there are bound to be inevitable mistakes, typos, miscommunications, or simply wrong information. Neither the maintainer(s) nor any contributor(s) to the list assume any responsibility for losses or damages resulting from the use or the information in this FAQ. In this age of instant information, knowledge is power and misknowledge is dangerous. Use this document at your own risk. 0.4 Acknowledgements This FAQ was started to provide a mechanism for answering commonly asked questions about mainly Minolta 35mm camera gear. As such, almost all of the preliminary material has come from the Minolta Mailing List. There are so many names to mention on this list, that I will simply mention the list itself. Any additional contributors to this FAQ are listed below, and apologies to anyone who was accidentally left out. Mailing addresses are last-known, and may no longer be valid. Bo-Ming Tong bmtong@cs.arizona.edu (this FAQ based on his Nikon FAQ) Rob Managan managan@llnl.gov (the 7000 internal battery question) Martin Pilc marpi@psu.edu (x50si, 600si multiple exposures) Andrew Hately hat@cfmu.eurocontrol.be (SPxi) Choo Mun Fai munfai@ncb.gov.sg (lots of nits, APO, and G series) Olivier Jadot oj@info.ucl.ac.be (lots of nits, 3000i, xi lenses) Craig Huxley craig@dyson.brisnet.org.au (The Tips n Tricks Section) Alexey A. Solovyov alekso@math.ucr.edu (700si multi-exposure trick) 0.5 History 01-Dec-1993: Minolta Mailing List created (ecldco@rit.edu) 01-May-1994: MML moved to listserver@listserv.rit.edu 11-Apr-1995: Initial work on this FAQ 18-Apr-1995: Released version 0.1 01-Nov-1995: Private Release version 0.15 (by Craig Huxley) 02-Mar-1996: Release version 1.0 20-Mar-1996: Added all suggestions from Minolta-L to date ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 INTRODUCTION 1.1 Where can I get this FAQ? It used to be that the FAQ was obtainable via world-wide web or FTP access. While this is no longer the case, it is being worked on. You can request a copy of the FAQ by sending mail to eloyd@kodak.com and asking for it. Until such time as it becomes available on the net again, this is the only official source of the FAQ. If you are a subscriber to the Minolta Mailing List, you can search the archives for the FAQ and obtain a copy that way. I will not describe that process here. 1.1.1 What is the Minolta Mailing List? The Minolta Mailing List (MML, for short) is a listserver based mailing list created to discuss all things Minolta. This usually ends up being Maxxum/Dynax series cameras and lenses, Minolta MF gear, and the occasional digital camera question, but there is a host of other activity as well. To join the MML, you need only send electronic mail to LISTSERV@LISTSERVER.RIT.EDU with a body of SUBSCRIBE MINOLTA-L Your Name. In my case, that would be "SUBSCRIBE MINOLTA-L Eric Loyd" all on one line, and without the quotes. 1.1.2 What is the Minolta Users' Group? The Minolta Users' Group (MUG, for short) is a self-proclaimed web site that archives the entire MML postings, as well as having the MUG Shots, which is a web-based way of introducing yourself as a Minolta user. This FAQ is also housed at the MUG, and other information including lens statistics and so forth are in the works. Note: Until further notice, the MUG is no longer officially in operation, though parts of its previous contents may be found at a temporary web site. The address is http://dyson.brisnet.org.au/~craig/mug.html. I am working on joining the Minolta Users Group, Minolta Mailing List, and Minolta Corporation. 1.2 How can I contact Minolta? Minolta is now online at http://www.minolta.com on the World-Wide Web. To my knowledge, there is no electronic mail address for Minolta (although I do know of some Minolta folks who have AOL or GEnie addresses, but those don't count). The following information was taken from the MUG, which in turn was taken from Minolta literature: Main Office / East Regional Office Midwest Regional Office Minolta Corporation Minolta Corporation Photographic Division 3000 Tollview Drive 101 Williams Drive Rolling Meadows, Illinois 60008 Ramsey, New Jersey 07446 (708) 398-4400 (201) 825-4000 Southeast Regional Office West Regional Office Minolta Corporation Minolta Corporation 5904 Peachtree Corners, East 11150 Hope Street Norcross, Georgia 30071 Cypress, California 90630 (404) 449-3600 (714) 895-6633 Canadian Office Minolta Corporation 369 Brittania Road East Mississauga, Ontario H4Z 2H5 (905) 890-6600 FAX: (905) 890-7199 1.3 Other Sources of Information Other photographic FAQs can be obtained at the following sites (taken from Bo-Ming Tong's periodic posting to rec.photo newsgroups): WWW: http://www.cs.arizona.edu/people/bmtong/photo/ WWW: http://math.liu.se/~behal/photo/ FTP: ftp.cs.arizona.edu Dir: people/bmtong/photo FTP: relay.cs.toronto.edu Dir: pub/acs/rec.photo FTP: moink.nmsu.edu Dir: rec.photo ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2 35mm CAMERA BODIES 2.1 What's the difference between Maxxum and Dynax cameras? Minolta produces cameras designed for distribution in two markets: The US and elsewhere. Cameras distributed in the US are designated Maxxum cameras, and those elsewhere are Dynax cameras. A Maxxum 7xi is the same camera as a Dynax 7xi (for instance). Most people in the States refer to Minolta's AF series cameras as "the Maxxum series." This FAQ will do the same. If you live outside the US, just replace "Maxxum" with "Dynax' and things will still be accurate. 2.2 What Maxxum cameras are there? Please note that the models listed below are from my experience with Minolta USA. There are international/European/Asian model numbers that are slightly different. In cases where model X is called model Y outside of the USA, the model is listed as X/Y. In basic chronological order, there are four model lines. Each one has various individual models within the model line. These are listed below according to their series, then their US model number, then their relative sophistication within each model line: The x000 series: 5000, 7000, 9000 The i-series: 3000i, 5000i, 7000i, 8000i The xi-series: SPxi, 2xi, 3xi, 5xi, 7xi, 9xi The si-series: 400si/500si, 450si, 600si, 650si, 700si (Note that the si series has a fair number of strange combinations of date backs and panorama modes. Unless stated otherwise, the 600si can be considered basically equivalent to a 700si.) 2.3 Can you compare these cameras' features? All Maxxum series cameras are auto focus cameras. They all have automatic exposure as well (in which the camera picks the shutter speed and the aperture setting). AF and AE only work with the appropriate lenses (ie, autofocus lenses designed for the Minolta Maxxum AF mount). A chart showing each camera's specifications is forthcoming, and will be presented as Appendix A when complete. 2.4 What is autofocus? Autofocus (AF) is just that. The camera has sensors that detect when something is in focus. If it's out of focus, it knows whether the focus is too close or too far. All Maxxum series cameras are AF cameras. 2.4.1 What is predictive AF? Mostly a marketing ploy, but it does have some good points. Predictive AF anticipates the subject's movement and focuses on that spot even while the mirror is flipping up. Since the focus sensors are not recieving light while the mirror is flipping up, the camera's computer must use its internal logic to try to figure out what the subject is, what its movement patterns are, and where it will be when the film plane is exposed. 2.4.2 What is continuous AF? Simply that. The AF system continous to focus even though you may or may not have tripped the shutter. This works hand-in-hand with predictive AF to keep a subject in proper focus at all times. 2.5 I'm a new/amateur photographer. What camera should I buy? This is one of those personal decisions. You should buy what you can afford that has the features you want. Typically, the lower the Minolta model number, the less features it has. Since the entire range of Maxxum lenses can be used on any Maxxum camera (see the section on lenses for information about exceptions to this rule), the camera body is what will limit your mechanical functionality, not the lens. This FAQ cannot begin to tell you which camera is right for what sort of application, but I can say that the high end of each model line is typically for the advanced user. The 9xi is specifically targeted at the professional. The 400si is targeted at the generic amateur photographer, and the 9000 is the collector's classic can't-be-killed camera. 2.6 I'm a professional photographer. What camera should I buy? The 9xi is Minolta's flagship professional model camera. The 9000 is a bit older, but also a professional model. There is most likely going to be a professional model 900si, but Minolta has been tight lipped about it. Currently, the top three pro choices are the 9xi, the 9000, and the 700si (which is functionally the same basic camera as the 9xi, but without the rugged body design). 2.7 Do any Maxxum cameras have mirror lock-up? No. Mirror lock-up is the ability to flip the camera's mirror up before the exposure is taken, thereby lessening the vibration caused by the mechanism. There has been talk of a Mirror Lock-Up program card being technically feasible (this talk occured on the MML), but Minolta hasn't done anything towards creating one. They claim that the mirror shake has all but been elimintated in their newer cameras due to mechanical improvements. 2.8 Do any Maxxum cameras have depth of field preview? Yes. The 9000, the 9xi, the 600si, 650si, and the 700si all have DOF previews. On the 9000, it is mechanical and lockable (you can take a picture while the DOF preview is activated). On the others, it is electronic and not lockable. Since the electronic version stops the aperture down _and_ resets the blades (it basically takes an exposure without opening the shutter) there is a rather large noise associated with this action. The 9000 does not suffer from this as the lever is simply a mechanical stopping down of the lens. 2.8.1 How can I do DOF preview on a non-DOF preview camera? Most lenses have DOF scales on them. At a given aperture, once the lens is focussed, the front and rear distances that will be in focus are designated on the lens barrel. See your lens manual for more info. You can also use a DOF chart which shows DOF for a combination of focal length, subject distance, and aperture settings. 2.9 How do I do multiple exposures? On any i, xi, or si series camera, you can do multiple exposures with the Multiple Exposure Program Card from Minolta. The 9000 has its own mechanism for doing multiple exposures. If your camera doesn't take program cards, you can use the "poor man's" multiple exposure trick. 2.9.1 Poor man's multiple exposures This involves carefully positioning the film before you load it, and marking what sprocket is on what hole. You then shoot your film for the first exposure normally. Rewind the film, get the leader out, and reposition the film in the same way that it was originally loaded. Hit a the shutter release with the lens cap on (in a dark room with the minimum aperture and the fastest shutter speed if you're paranoid) until you're back to the same frame that you want to do a second exposure. Take the second exposure. You can do this as many times as you like but obviously, it's tedious and error prone. 2.9.2 Multiple exposures on the 9000 On the 9000 there is a "multiple exposure button" just under the wind lever. If you press this when winding then the film is not advanced but the shutter is cocked. It works with motor drives too. (the 9000 is the only manual advance Maxxum). 2.9.3 Multiple exposures on the 9xi On the 9xi, you can program a button to be "don't-advance-the-film" button. 2.9.4 Multiple exposures on the 600si You can program from one to nine exposures on the same frame. 2.9.5 Multiple exposures on the 700si On the 700si, you can take two exposures on the same frame (but not more) using the built-in multiple exposure button. You can also use the multiple exposure card. There is also a trick you can use: Put the 700si into multiple-exposure mode and take the first shot. Then turn the camera off and back on again. Now either hit the P button and then set up your camera as needed, or put your camera back into single exposure mode and turn it off then back on again. You can now go into multiple-exposure mode again and take the second shot. Repeat this process until you have taken as many shots as you desire. 2.10 What are program cards? The i, xi, and si series (and, most likely, all series thereafter) all take programmable function cards. That is, except for the SPxi, the 2xi, the 3xi, the 400si, and the 600/650si. These are chips in a plastic case the size of a half stick of gum that you shove into the camera body. Each one does something different, although Minolta tries to make some bucks by doing the same basic thing on different cards. Appendix B lists all Minolta function cards available. 2.11 What batteries should I use? There are three basic types of photographic batteries that you might need with a Maxxum camera. AAA, AA, or 2CR5. The former are typically alkaline or NiCad (rechargable) batteries, the 2CR5 is typically a lithium-based battery. With regards to the alkaline or NiCad batteries, what you pay for is what you get. As for the 2CR5 batteries (which the i, xi, and si series use) different people report different battery types with different degrees of success. From the MML, the worst seems to be Duracells, and the best seem to be Panasonics. 2.11.1 My 7000 refuses to work even with new batteries. What gives? The Maxxum 7000 has two sets of batteries. The AAA (or AA if you are using the extended battery pack) which powers the AF, AE, and motor drive, and an internal lithium battery. The internal battery is behind the silver plate that you see when you remove the battery pack. Minolta claims that when this battery starts to go dead, that you have to take your 7000 to a Minolta dealer and have them replace the internal battery, but if you're careful, you can replace it yourself by removing this panel. 2.11.2 Extended battery pack for 9xi The Maxxum 9xi will accept the BP-9xi battery pack. This is a battery pack that connects to the bottom of the camera, replacing the 2CR5 internal battery with 4 AA batteries. There is currently some debate as to whether or not you can use lithium batteries (as opposied to alkaline) in the BP-9xi. Minolta warns you not to. 2.11.3 Extended battery pack / vertical grip for 700si The 700si's extended battery pack doubles as a vertical grip (the VC-700). If you rotate the camera 90 degrees, you still have the same layout of buttons (shutter release, AEL, etc). 2.11.4 What other cameras have the vertical grip? Only the 700si, although it is a popular item and probably only a matter of time before other cameras get them. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3 LENSES 3.1 Basic information about Minolta Maxxum lenses The Maxxum AF mount lens was created in 1985 with the advent of the Maxxum 7000. It is slightly larger than the previous Minolta MD mount (which is a manual focus). There do exist converters that will allow MC or MD mount lenses to be mounted on a Maxxum, but they all act as teleconverters as well due to the difference in diameters. All Maxxum compatible lenses are autofocus lenses which can also be manually focused (with the slight exception of the xi series lenses). They also are automatically stopped down to the appropriate aperture, and in all cases, the actual aperture range is continuous, not specific settings such as 8, 5.6, or 4 (in other words, the actual aperture set by the camera may be 4.23 instead of 4 or 4.5). 3.1.1 What series Maxxum lenses are there? There are three types of Maxxum series lenses. The classic, the i series, and the xi series. A special lens called the power zoom is also available, but can be lumped into the xi series for sake of argument. The classic series was replaced with the i series, and the i series is what all Maxxum lenses are today. Minolta also makes a "high performance" line of lenses called the G series. 3.1.2 What is the classic series? The classic series are lenses which were produced early on in the Maxxum line. These include the 35-70/f4, the 135/f2.8, and the 200/f4. There is nothing wrong with these lenses and they will work with non-classic lines of Maxxum cameras (ie, they will work with i, xi, and si series cameras), but the computer chips that are inside lack some of the information that the newer cameras can make use of. For all intents and purposes, there is no difference other than age between the classic line and the i series. 3.1.3 What is the i series? The i series was introduced to match the i series camera. The i series lenses use faster and lighter mechanisms, and have more contacts than the classic series, allowing the newer cameras to get more information from the lens. All Maxxum compatible lenses produced today are i-series compatible. 3.1.4 What is the xi series? The xi series is from the "Solutions to Problems Which Don't Exist Yet" department at Minolta. They are powered zoom lenses that use a motor to both zoom and focus. Since the zooming can be controlled by the camera, this lets xi cameras and lenses do interesting things together. Most people shy away from xi lenses because of the extra battery drain, and some say that the optical quality suffers on some of them, but this is all opinion. Since xi series lenses use a motor to control zooming and focusing, on a pre-xi series camera (the i or x000 series) these functions do not always function. Specifically, the zoom capability is lost, and you must use the AF system (since the manual focus is also power assisted). 3.1.5 What is the power zoom lens? The power zoom lens is a 35-80/f4-4.5 macro lens that uses a motor in the camera, not a motor in the lens (such as the xi series) to move the lens elements. It was Minolta's last attempt at creating a useable xi type lens, but the public still didn't want it. It suffers from the same lack of functionality on the older cameras as the xi-series lenses. 3.1.6 What is the G series? The G series is a set of high quality, professional lenses from Minolta that sport large apertures and large filter sizes. These are also listed in Appendix C. 3.2 Who else makes Maxxum compatible lenses? Lots of people. The main third party vendors of any great success and reputation are Sigma, Tamron, and Tokina. Other vendors include Vivitar, Samyang, and Kalimar. In the world of photographic lenses, all other things being equal, what you pay for is what you get. 3.2.1 Tell me more about Sigma Sigma makes their lenses in Japan for distribution in the USA, Germany, and Japan. If you didn't buy your Sigma lens in one of those three countries, then it came through one of them. Sigma lenses are generally good quality, cheap, affordable lenses. They also fill in some of the holes in the original Maxxum line (such as the 400mm/f5.6 APO and the 21-35mm/f3.5-4.2). Some people complain that Sigma lenses feel cheap or that the front elements sometimes come off. This is not a judgement on this author's part, just a report. Other people have no problems, even with the same lens. As always, try to get it in hand before purchasing it, and do what you would normally do with it to see how it all works. 3.2.2 Tell me more about Tamron Tamron actually makes a lot of optics that people like Minolta and Canon slap their own labels and electronics on top of. Their Maxxum line of lenses is quite good, usually ranked in the top of the third party lenses for Maxxums. They are also slightly more expensive. 3.2.3 Tell me more about Tokina Tokina makes a rather small selection of Maxxum lenses, but they are also all good quality. A common debate is whether to get the Sigma 400mm/f5.6 APO or the Tokina version. Most people agree that the Tokina is better, the Sigma cheaper, and let your heart decide. 3.2.4 What about the others? Almost all other vendors make their lenses in Korea or China. Not that there's anything wrong with that. Just FYI. Vivitar is starting to make more Maxxum compatible lenses that are starting to rival the big three (Sigma, Tamron, and Tokina), but the Samyang and Kalimar lenses of the world you should probably avoid. They're easy to afford, since they are typically cheap. 3.3 What lenses does Minolta make? The list of Minolta Maxxum lenses is reproduced in Appendix C. This list is constantly out of date, but it is hoped that it at least lets you see what's out there. 3.4 What are teleconverters (or doublers)? Teleconverter, doubler, and TC are all the same thing (although a doubler is technically a specific TC). A TC is an attachment that fits between the camera body and the lens. TCs are given multipliers such as 1.4x, 2x, or 3x (the most common). This multiplier is then applied to the focal length and the aperture of the lens that is connected to it. TCs are cheap ways of getting longer focal length (ie, more telephoto) lenses, but at the cost of less light entering the barrel of the lens. A 200mm/f4 lens with a 2x TC becomes a 400mm/f8 lens. This may be cheaper than a 400mm/f5.6, but it will not be as optically good. By comparison, a 400mm/f5.6 lens with a 1.4x TC becomes a 560mm/f8 lens. Again, this is by far cheaper than a 500mm/6.7 (for instance), but the optical quality will suffer. 3.4.1 What about matched teleconverters? Matched teleconverters are designed for a specific lens or group of lenses. Minolta makes a 1.4x and 2x TC (APO) that are designed for their higher end lenses (the 200mm/f2.8, the 300mm/f2.8, and the 600mm/f4). Matched TCs are typically a good way to increase focal length, but they can be as expensive as a new lens (the 2x TC for the 600mm/f4 for instance goes for $400 list from Minolta as of this writing). 3.5 What does APO mean? APO stands for apochromatic. This is a series of coatings and special lens material that manufacturers use to ensure that all waveforms of light are focused at the same point. Since different colors of light normally focus at slightly different spots on the film plane, APO lenses typically result in sharper images than non-APO lenses. APO lenses are also more costly. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4 FLASH UNITS 4.1 What does a flash _do_? A flash provides light to illuminate a subject. Without becoming a FAQ on general photography, there are two basic uses for a flash. One is to be the primary light source for a scene, the second is to be a fill light to fill in the shadows that occur when the primary light is not coming from same side of the subject that the camera is facing. Most flash units incorporate a set of batteries that charge a capacitor to build up a large electric charge. This charge is then drained quickly through the flash element, resulting in a big flash of light. 4.2 What is a guide number (GN)? Guide number is a measurement of how powerful a flash is. Here's the scoop. A GN is usually meausred in feet at ISO 100. It is computed by taking the best exposure from a series of test exposures and multiplying the distance to the subject by the aperture used. Since this is mostly subjective and done in a lab (and since GN is used by some people as the basis for flash purchases) most GNs are on the high side. You need to find your personal GN for the flash(es) you own. 4.2.1 How do I determine my personal GN? Do the same thing the flash manufacturer did. Take your flash and your camera somewhere where the flash provides all of the light on a subject. Since this is typically indoors at night, you'll also be measuring the effect of reflections off the ceiling and walls, but that's what the manufacturer did too. Anyway. Set the subject (something with lots of contrasting lines and edges and colors, like a person) some distance away from the camera (which is on a tripod or other non-moving surface). 10 feet is what the manufacturer most likely used but I prefer 5 meters (about 16 feet). Disable TTL flash metering, stick the flash on full power, make sure the camera shutter speed is constant (manual mode with shutter at 1/100 is the easiest way to do this), take a series of exposures with whatever film you use most often. Remember, this personal GN is indicative of the type of use you put your flash through, not what the lab did) with different apertures. You should use 100 speed film just to come up with an industry standard GN, but you can convert if you use slower or faster film. Each exposure should be a different aperture, starting with the largest and going to the smallest in whatever increments you feel like blowing the film on. In my case, I use a 50mm/f1.7 lens and do 1.7, 2, 2.8, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5.6, 6.7, 8, 11, 13, 16, and 22. Develop this film. It's easier to do this next step with prints than slides, but you're supposed to be using your favorite film so you might be using slides. Now, lay all of your images out and pick the one that looks the best. Figure out which image that was and which aperture you used. Multiply your best exposure's aperture by the distance you used and that's your personal GN. In my case, let's pretend that at 15 meters, the best exposure was at f/2.8. That would give my flash/film a personal GN of 42 meters. You can always go closer and try again if you don't have a powerful flash (like 3 meters instead of 5). 4.2.2 How does aperture affect my flash distance? Assuming that you use 100 speed film, a GN of 30 meters (for the sake of an example) means that at f/1 your flash will illuminate 30 meters, at f/2, 15m, at f/4, 7.5m, etc. Therefore, to figure out how far your flash will illuminate, divide your GN by your aperture. This will be the maximum distance that your flash can cover at that aperture (assuming also that you don't use flash compensation or only partially charge the flash). 4.2.3 How does film speed affect my flash distance? Since shutter speed does not determine the flash exposure, only the aperture does (except in the case of ambient light flash photography, which this won't begin to cover), changing the film speed changes the amount of light that reaches the film by a certain number of stops. Going from 100 to 200 speed film doubles the light, allowing a one stop reduction in aperture. Going from 100 to 64 is about a 2/3 stop increase due to light loss. Using 400 speed film would be a two stop difference from the 100 speed, and so forth. Assuming that you have a GN 30m (at ISO 100) flash, that means that at f/1, your flash will cover 30 meters. If you use 200 speed film, you can stop down by a full stop (f/1.4) and still get the same exposure. Therefore, a GN 30m flash with 200 speed film is (30mm x f/1.4) the same as a GN 42m (at ISO 100) flash. The same is true in reverse. If you use 50 speed slide film, and have a GN 30m (at ISO 100) flash, then you have a flash that covers 15m at f/2. Since you have to open up by a stop to shoot the same exposure with ISO 50 speed film, you have to open up to f/1.4 to still get the 15m of flash to subject distance. This changes your GN to 21m (at ISO 100). There is nothing special about the numbers chosen above to illustrate the GN conversion. It's easier for me to think simply of f/1, f/1.4 and f/2 for the sake of converting GNs. 4.2.4 How does shutter speed affect my flash distance? It doesn't. The flash lasts for about 1/25,000 of a second. A lot shorter than even the fastest Maxxum shutter speed (1/12,000 of a second on the 9xi). The only exception to this is the 5400HS flash, which is covered separately. Bottom line: flash exposure is determined by the aperture, background exposure by the shutter. 4.3 What is a hot shoe? The mounting bracket on top of most cameras is called a hot shoe. It typically looks like a narrow C on it's side with electrical contact points in it. Minolta cameras up through the x000 series (including non-Maxxum cameras that have hot shoes) use an ISO hot shoe. Starting with the i-series, Minolta flipped the C around a little bit to create what is called the iISO hot shoe. This, they claim, helps line the flash up with the lens axis better for AF assist and proper frame coverage. It's mostly a marketing ploy to get people to buy Minolta flash units. but it does provide for a better support for the flash unit on the mount. 4.4 What is a dedicated flash? A dedicated flash is a flash unit that is electrically connected (though not neccessarily mounted in) the camera's hot shoe. It is programmed to respond to the signals sent by the camera to provide information such as focal length, aperture, and TTL feedback. Compare this to a non-dedicated flash. 4.4.1 What is a non-dedicated (manual) flash? The basic flash unit is a manual flash. It consists of a light source with no specific interface to the camera other than a trigger signal. The user must set such things as flash output (a percentage of the full output), any zooming to cover the angle of view, and so forth. Typically, manual flash units are much more powerful (ie, have higher GNs) than dedicated flash units, because more space can be devoted to flash electronics instead of camera interface electronics. With a manual flash, the operator must be very aware of the GN, the aperture, and the flash to subject distance to correctly compute the exposure settings. 4.5 What is TTL flash metering? Through The Lens (TTL) flash metering is a method that the camera uses to detect how long to leave the flash on to achieve proper exposure. In all Maxxum series cameras, TTL is Off The Film (OTF) which means that the light reflected from the film is what is examined. 4.6 So what flash units are there? There are three basic types of Minolta flashes these days: Non-Maxxum (for pre-Maxxum cameras), original (ISO) Maxxum flashes, and the current i/xi/HS series (iISO). 4.6.1 What about the pre-Maxxum flashes? I don't know much about them at all. Anyone? 4.6.2 What about the ISO Maxxum flashes? There are two ISO Maxxum flashes, the 2800 and the 4000. The first two digits represent the GN is meters at ISO 100. The 2800 is a basic flash offering a high and low setting (low is 1/2 flash output) while the 4000 has a zoom/tilt/swivel head and a much more programmable interface. 4.6.3 What about the iISO Maxxum flashes? These are the newer Maxxum flashes, and even though most have i or xi in the model number, all will at least perform basic flash functions with any i, xi, or si series camera. They are the 2000i, 3500xi, 5400xi, and the 5400HS (which is a souped up 5400xi). The 3500xi, 5400xi, and 5400HS are all all zoom/tilt flashes (the 5400 series also swivels), while the 2000i is a simple dedicated flash. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ACCESSORIES 5.1 Control Grip (CG-1000) The CG-1000 is a bracket that uses the tripod screw on the bottom of the x000 series cameras (it was designed for the 7000 and 9000 and may work with the 5000). It is basically a flash bracket that takes the flash off the camera hot shoe and puts it at the end of this L-shaped bracket. The batteries in the bracket (6 AA) also provide for faster recycling time of the flash unit. The CG-1000 also provides for ratio control with a second 2800AF or 4000AF in the camera hot shoe, as well as an extension cable that allows the flash handle to be removed from the bracket for more versatile lighting. A small AF unit is used to maintain flash AF functionality from the hot shoe on the camera when only one flash is on the CG-1000. 5.1.1 Can I use the CG-1000 with any other Maxxum camera? You can use it with the 7000i and the 8000i. You may be able to whack off the contact pins and thread it into the tripod hole on another Maxxum, but you aren't using your CG-1000 properly if you're doing this. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TIPS & TRICKS 6.1 How Do I leave the Film Leader out on my Dynax/Maxxum?? This is one of the most frequently questions in the MML. With cameras that accept the Creative Card System you will need the Custom (xi) Card. Other models not accepting these card require you to use a film leader retreiver to fish the leader back out. See Section 6.8 for Custom card setings. 6.1.1 How do I leave the film leader out on my 9000? The 9000 and/or the MD-90 always leave the film leader out (again, the 9000 is the Maxxum series' only manual advance camera). 6.2 Can I use non AF lenses on my Dynax/Maxxum body. The Maxxum/Dynax range use a form of checking that ensures that a lens is mounted correctly. This is primarily to stop any damage to the lens or camera. To achieve this, if the signals are not read correctly between camera and lens then the shutter is locked. This is all well and good except if you want to connect to a telescope or a lens not available in AF mount such as a perspective control lens. 6.2.1 How to disable the lens mount check. It requires pushing two buttons while turning the camera off and on again, 2/3xi can only be modified by Minolta service 5xi Function & Spot 7/9xi function & AEL 500si AV & selftimer 600si ISO lens dismount button 700si Card & Spot 6.2.2 How do I mount a non AF lens. You need to purchase a special adapter that will fit your Maxxum mount. If you have a standard screw mount lens e.g. a 500mm mirror lens, you will need a T2 adapter for Minolta AF fit. These are very common and relatively inexpensive. 6.2.3 ADAPTERS TO USE MD & ADAPTALL ON Minolta AF cameras. With the high prices of good AF lenses and the wealth of manual focus lenses to suit the Tamron adaptall mount and Minolta MD mount this question keeps cropping up. Adapters like this provide similar benefits to the Nikon/Pentax FA ranges in transferring over lenses from your previous manual body. This probably isn't as valid since Minolta have had high quality AF SLR's for 10 + years. Subject: RE: 700si-MD adapter-Popular Photography June'94 >From Jarvis: In this issue on page 52, it is stated that "You can use non-Maxxum mount lenses..... you can use many Minolta MD lenses and other makes with proper non-Minolta adapters...." If you have tried to use a MD lens on your 700si or 7000, what was your experience? What adapter did you use? Is the image quality degrade sufficiently by the adapter? Why does the article say many Minolta MD lenses instead ofall? ANSWER I have used the adapter on my 7xi with MC W-Rokkor 35mm f/1.8, MD 24-35 zoom, and Tamron 90mm f/2.5 Macro, with the MD adapter. I am very pleased with the results. It is well worth the money, if you some old MC and MD lenses you want to keep and yet take advantage of the new metering systems, auto bracketing, etc, etc. I highly recommend it. I don't know why the author wrote "many MD lenses." I don't know what the restrictions are. I would have assumed all MD lenses would work. Someone else will have to answer that question. Regards. The adapter is a Soligor 7000/9000 + MD. There is no other marking. Yes, there is a minute optic but I see no differences in focal length so it is not a teleconverter. The Tamron adapter is simply the Maxxum adapter for Tamron lenses. 6.3 EXTENSION TUBES >>Phil Bradon at Minolta USA uses a Kenko, which has been indicated is >>available from B&H, as I recall. It is a 25mm tube. There also is a >>set for the original Maxxum and "i" series cameras, and I believe one >>was 8mm and another was 13mm. They don't, however, AF. > >I don't expect any extension tube to AF, especially when dealing with >macrophotography. I'll talk to B&H and see what I can come up with. >Thanks. On the bright side, extension tubes are available. They are made in Japan by "Kenko". Apparently there are two made, one (non-AF) set for the original and "i" series Maxxums, that will give 1x capability to a standard 50mm lens. The other supports AF, for the "xi" and "si" series. This tube is 25mm long. Mr. Bradon notes that he uses one of the 25mm tubes, and that they are stackable. It is NOT recommended that the "i" series tube be used on the "xi" or "si" bodies, as the bodies could be damaged. - Dennis > I look in the Adorama's catalog, I don't see any extention tube for > Minolta AF camera. > So what what type of extention tube do you use ? Can you still do > AF and the metering still work ? > B&H I was told by the folks at Minolta carry the "Kenko" AF extension tube for the Maxxum. It is labeled for the "xi", but should be useable on the earlier Maxxums as well. It is 25mm long. Kenko also makes a set of non-AF extension tubes. The folks at Minolta expressly said NOT to use it on the "xi" and later series cameras, as it could damage the camera. This set is shorter than the AF version. Both sets are stackable. Bruce Burden bruceb@mpd.tandem.com Tandem Computers Inc. 6.4 A SOURCE OF SPECIAL ADAPTERS From: Bob Easton Subject: SRB address (was Re: adaptors) | > If all else fails there is a company in the UK (called SRB) who will make | > custom adaptors to fit anything to anything. The only caveat is that some | > conversions lose infinity focus. I haven't taken them up on it yet, but I | > did get a quote from them to make a Minolta/Contax adaptor so I can fit my | > 7xi to a Contax bellows. | | I would definitely be interested in the address for SRB. Please | post the address to this list, The address is : SRB Film Service 286 Leagrave Road Luton Bedfordshire LU3 1RB UK and the phone number is (+44) 582 572471 fax (+44) 582 572535 6.5 MAKING YOUR OWN REMOTE RELEASE CORD. The meaning of each pin is : Back of the camera Front of the camera o o o C F S C for Common F for Focus S for Shutter release. The way to activate focus is to connect C and F, and for the release, C and S. But there is still a problem : The question of the switch is not so trivial : The Minolta remote cord allow, on the same switch, to focus, and if pushed a bit more, to release the shutter. And to lock the switch with shutter released for long pause. It's possible to implement this with 2 switches, but what appens if the focus switch is held when the release switch is pushed ? Or if the focus switch is held while the shutter is released in pause mode ? I don't want to try this sort of experimentation on my camera. Scott, did you find a switch with all these functions ? or do you have 2 switches ? Anyway, for the connector, I had another solution from the news : It's to buy the cord which connect the camera to the IC R1 infrared remote device. The only problem is that this device only deal with the shutter release and I'm afraid that this cord only have two pins connected. From: SCOTTK@MAINE.maine.edu (Scott Kimball) Date: Wed, 20 Jul 94 16:55:56 EDT The question was asked, Did I find a switch like Minolta uses, or did I use 2 switches. The answer: I used 2 switches in the following way: A push-on, push-off single pole, single throw switch enables focus. A momentary single pole, double throw switch de- activates focus and activates the shutter with one push. (Pins are drawn in F C S incorrect order | | | for ease of |--/--| | | drawing -- (foc) |SPST | ___| C F S is the |--------|_|_| correct order) SPDT (shutter) Please forgive the crude drawing. Wired this way, using autofocus mode, you can first press the focus button to enable the autofocus. Then, when the camera has focused, press the shutter release button (the SPDT button) to switch instantly from "focus" to "fire" (and back again if you use the momentary switch). If you are manually focusing, you need not first press the focus button, and the shutter will still trip when you press the shutter release. If you do first press the focus button and the camera is in manual focus mode, nothing happens because autofocus is not on. In a way, I like a 2 button setup better than a 1 button setup, because there is less chance of accidently firing off a shot. The only thing this doesn't have is a locking feature to lock the shutter open, but it shouldn't be hard to come up with a mechanical method of locking the button down. As far as experimenting with this and the possibility of damaging the camera, as long as you don't introduce any current into the circuit there won't be a problem. The only other damage you could do is bending or breaking a pin in the camera socket if you make a connector that doesn't fit well and try to force it. 6.6 MINOLTA WINDERS WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCES?? Bruce T. Ritchie, JOAT writes: > > Also, can anyone tell me the difference between Minolta winders > `D' and `G'? Thanks! > The answer is really very simple: the Minolta Winder D fits under the XD-series (XD11, etc.) whereas the Winder G can be used with both the XG-M and the X-series (X-700, etc.). Due to differences in 'layout', both winder types are not compatible. Apart from the Winder G (2 fps) there's also the Motor Drive I (4.5 fps) for the XG-M and the X-series. There is no motordrive for the XD-series :-( Paul F. van Soest E-Mail: pfvsoest@bio.vu.nl 6.7 REPLACEMENT MANUALS On Mon, 22 Aug 1994, Kent Anderson wrote: > Welcome to the list! Minolta manuals are available for $5-8 each > directly from Minolta. Call Minolta and tell the operator/receptionist I recieved a free photocopy of the manual for my XG7 after writing a letter to the parts dept. I had just asked for the availability of a manual, and they sent me the copy. Though it might be because that's all they had. The address is: Minolta Corporation c/o Parts Department 101 Williams Drive Ramsey, NJ 07446 6.8 CUSTOM CARD FUNCTIONS From: "James B. Laird" Subject: Custom function card settings 1. Selectable exposure modes You can decide whether aperture-priority, shutter priority, and/or metered manual exposure modes should be selectable or not. 2. Focus-hold button on 70-210mm and 100-300mm zoom lenses You can decide whether the function of the focus-hold button should be to hold focus, to select center-area focus- ing, or to select continuous autofocus. 3. Shutter speed (M and S exposure modes) You can decide whether shutter speeds should be selectable in 1-EV steps or 1/2-EV steps. 4. Slow shutter speed warning (P and A exposure modes) You can cancel the slow shutter speed alarm so that it will not sound even if the camera's main switch is set to do so. 5. Film counter You can decide whether film counter should count normal- ly or should count down frames remaining. 6. Film rewind start You can decide whether film rewinding should be started automatically or manually. 7. Film leader You can decide whether or not the leader of the film should be completely rewound into the film cartridge. The 700si and *xi* work with the same card - in fact the non-xi card will not work at all with the 700si. On Friday, Oct 7 I inadvertently listed the functions of the plain vanilla Custom Function card instead of the Custom Function Card xi. Here are the xi card function settings: 1. Film counter: Setting 1: Displays number of frames shot. Setting 2: Displays frames remaining. 2. Start of film rewind: Setting 1: Automatic. Setting 2: Manual. 3. Film tip: Setting 1: Rewound into cartridge. Setting 2: Left out of cartridge. 4. DX memory: Setting 1: Off. Setting 2: On. 5. Program flash control: Setting 1: Autoswitchover. Setting 2: Manual switchover. 6. Focus-hold button: Setting 1: Focus hold. Setting 2: Center-area select. Setting 3: Continuous AF. 7. Eyepiece sensor activation: Setting 1: By grip switch. Setting 2: By main switch. 6.9 PORTRAIT CARD SETTINGS (For use with Dynax/Maxxum 5000i/7000i/8000i) This Creative Expansion Card uses a special exposure program to provide the appropriate depth of field for portraits. The program automatically adjusts the aperture and shutter speed so that the subject stands out from the background. [ info on loading card in to camera and turning it on deleted ] TAKING PICTURES To take pictures, aim the camera at the subject and press the shutter-release button. Exposure will be adjusted automatically to provide the appropriate depth of field for the subject distance and the focal length of the lens in use. o Exposure mode will automatically set to program mode and cannot be changed. Program shift is not possible. o Focus mode will be set to autofocus mode and focus will be set to infinity. For best results do not use manual focus. o When the card is inserted after a Program/Maxxum Flash 2000i/3200i has been attached to the camera, the flash will automatically switch on and start charging. The flash can be turned off if not desired. o Many photographers find that a medium telephoto lens (more than 75 mm) offer the most pleasing results for taking portraits. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Kelly Jarman kjarman@sedona.intel.com (602) 554-2963 Intel, Corp.