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We start with a some the most necessary information you need
to have before buying a VW Cabrio Type 1. After reading this
you can go on and read the complete
Buyers Guide. Off course you could read this after your purchase,
it may be useful even then. Especially the after
purchase section.
I have deliberately avoided a lot of links to my deeper information
as it may lead you off track. So please read all below before
going further.
Before purchase:
1. A genuine cabrio?
Confirm that it is a genuine VW Karmann Cabrio Type 1 (Beetle
Cabrio) before even going to look at it. Because it is a genuine
Cabrio you are looking for?
2. Identity?
If possible check with the car registration authorities that
the person who claims to own the car owns it and that taxes are
paid etc. I do not know if this is possible in all countries,
but it is in Sweden. If you can get the chassisnumber and it
starts with 15 (from 1965 and newer) it conforms that the car
is a genuine Cabrio.
3. Original or custom?
Decide which is your preference.
4. Rust, rust, rust.
Cabrios tend to rust at least as much as the Sedans. But they
are much more difficult to repair. The weaker body could lead
to a deformed body if the welding job is done in an improper
way. Check the cars lines closely. Check that the special cabriosills
are in place under the normal sills.
5. The top
Check closely. A new top should get your attention as much as
a new paintjob, it could hide a lot of trouble. Expensive and
complicated to fix. The vinyl top (from 1966) shrinks, that is
normal, so if it shows no signs of this it is new or fairly new.
The wires on the sides are often snapped, and not to complicated
to replace, but they help to hold the sides of the top down,
so the should be intact. Check on the inside for signs of damp.
6. Engine, brakes etc.
Same as on the Sedan, so that is the "least" worry.
But do not neglect it, to rebuild an engine is costly. Be extra
careful with a tuned engine.
7. Restored or an object?
To restore a car is expensive, to buy a nicely restored
car is cheaper. The price difference is usually to small between
unrestored - fair and running - restored.
8. Complete and correct?
Is the car complete and is everything correct for that year?
How important this is depends on how important original is for
9. Garage?
Do not buy unless you can put your car in a safe place. The street
or outside at your house is not very safe and a Cabrio should
not be standing in the rain or in strong sunlight day after day.you.
10. Pay a resonable price
You could easily get to eager, especially on a sunny spring day.
Do not buy just because you must have a cabrio for summer. But
do not hesitate if you find the "perfect car". Do not
lose it just because you tried to negotiated the price to hard.
Really good cars are seldom for sale, it may take a long time
before you find another really nice one. The best time to buy
is in the autumn.
11. At the test drive
If possible drive with the top open and closed. At closed you
can check thightness, draft and noise from wheels, transmission
etc. At open you can check if the car flexes to much. Put a finger
between the door and the "B-pillar"; if you get a pinch
at bumps and potholes the body may be a bit to weak. This may
hurt! do not squeeze your finger in if the gap is narrow. Some
movement is normal. This is best done if someone else is driving.
More useful information:
Common, not cabrio specific, information about what to think
of before buying a VW could be found at The Bugshop and flat4 - the air cooled beetle site.
After purchase:
(Could also be read before)
When you finally have found the Cabrio you always dreamt of do
not rush away and start to take it apart, buying and replacing
things at random. Washing, polishing and normal service (oil,
plugs etc) is OK! Examine the car more carefully and make a plan
of what is to be done.
1. Rubber mouldings
Large and small, a complete change of them all is fairly expensive,
but necessary for looks and comfort. Silicone treat them regularly
and they last a lot longer.
2. The top
If it is in fair condition, if necessary at least renew the side
wires. Make sure that there no leaks at the rear window. Make
a test drive when it rains so you know that there are no leaks
at the front bow (does not apply from model 1303, 1973-). Do
not use any vinyl treatments on the top! They will just mess
it up, make it to glossy or even ruin it. Just wash it by hand.
3. To handle the top
Learn to handle it correctly, if done wrong you may harm it.
If you have the owners manual you can read how, if not, I have
an instruction. In open position: use the cover.
4. Join a club!
Join a VW enthusiasts club! Either local or one that covers your
country. In some countries there are special clubs just for the
cabrio. As far as I know there are Cabrioclubs in Germany, Great
Britain, France, Netherlands, Belgium and Switzerland. In a club
you may find lot of help and support, plus the pleasure to take
part in the clubs activities! Search the web for VW clubs, and
you will find a lot of them.
5. To buy parts.
Not everything can be bought from VW anymore. But there are a
lot of firms that are specialized in VW and they have more or
less everything, either original (NOS) or newly made. The quality
of the new made parts may vary, so be careful. Do not make a
big order from abroad to find out that they sell junk. Better
is to first make a small order, to check the firm out. Or even
better: buy locally.
6. If you need a new top
First read the New Top Guide. Do not try it yourself unless you
are really sure on what you are doing. A failure could be very
expensive. If you use a saddler, let him buy the material unless
he says otherwise. If he gets the material from his normal sources
he will be familiar with it. And if anything goes wrong he can
not be able to say that the material you brought was inferior.
7. Get a service manual
There are not many garages left that know how to repair a Beetle,
including VWs own. Try to do as much as possible yourself. If
you jion a local VW-club you can probably get help there.
8. Be careful
If this is your first VW (watercooled does not count!) take in
mind that an old VW-engine can not be run in the same manner
as a modern engine. Do not rev it to high and not to low. Change
oil every 5000 km (3500 miles) or more often, minimum once a
year. If you do not drive in the winter, make the oilchange in
the autumn. Clean the oilscreen everytime. Oil quality: To start
using a full synthetic oil in an old engine that have been run
on standardoil can make more damage then good. Better to continue
using a standard oil, but change more frequently.
9. Enjoy!
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